Semi synthetic fibres
Semi-synthetic Fibers
Semi synthetic fibre are also referred to as cellulosic fibres and they are generally derived from renewable organic materials. The most common base for semi synthetic fibres is wood pulp. These fibres are dissolved using chemicals and then regenerated into fibres that are woven into fabrics. Semi synthetic fibres include viscose, modal and lyocell. While the base materials are often easily renewable and can be grown with little water usage or pesticides most mass produced semi synthetic fibres are manufactured using processes that are heavy in chemical use and toxic to the environment and people living and working near the factories. Viscose is notorious for its poor ecological production processes. Many mass produced fibres get their cellulose from rainforest areas resulting in deforestation.
I’ll walk you through some of the semi synthetic materials below and the eco friendly options I am sourcing for my garments. I’ll also touch on some of the certifications to look for when purchasing garments made from semi synthetic fabrics
Viscose
Viscose is the first man made fibre and was initially developed to replicate silk. It is light weight, soft and smooth often with a cotton like feel. It has beautiful drape which makes it ideal for warm weather and beach wear and is commonly used in maxi and boho style garments. The weave has a tendency to “grow’ or stretch with wear, especially when used in tiered garments. Due to its delicate nature care needs to be taken when washing and drying to extend the life or your garment.
Viscose is usually made from fast growing trees and bamboo which makes its source cellulose easily renewable. However the rayon process used to turn wood pulp into viscose is a series of chemically intensive interventions. Manufacturers use carbon disulfide, caustic soda and sulfuric acid to dissolve and regenerate the pulp which is harmful to both the environment and the people in and around the factories.
An eco friendly alternative to generic viscose is Lenzing Viscose / ECOVERO™. It is FSC certified which ensures that the raw material comes from sustainably managed forests and manufacturing is according to the BAT (Best Available Technology).
Ecovero Viscose
Ecovero Viscose is a very similar fabric to traditional viscose, but the way it is produced is very different. It has the same qualities as viscose including great drape and soft hand but Lenzing Ecovero Viscose fibres are derived from sustainable wood and pulp, coming from certified and controlled sources.
These viscose fabrics are free of harmful substances and the manufacturing cycle has been optimised to drastically reduce the environmental impact compared to traditional viscose. Emissions and water impact are up to 50% lower using these production techniques. Lenzing also state that their wood sourcing policies are audited annually for their contribution to forest conservation, transparency, and commitment to sustainability.
Modal
Made from softwood trees, modal is another man-made fiber. It is smooth, breathable, and water-absorbent. It has superior durability compared to viscose and is generally considered low-maintenance. It doesn't crease or shrink and is not prone to pilling. Much like viscose, modal is chemically produced but it uses fewer substances and therefore the process is not as toxic. Additionally, a lot of manufacturers have already adopted a more environmental chemical management that captures hazardous waste before it gets discharged.
🌱 Eco-friendly Tip
Generic modal production may still source wood pulp from endangered and ancient forests and release harmful chemicals into the environment. These risks can be avoided with FSC / PEFC certified fabrics made according to the Best Available Technology such as TENCEL™ Modal.
Tencel/lyocell
Tencel™ refers to lyocell fibres produced under the Tencel™ brand name of Austrian company Lenzing AG. Tencel produce a wide range of fabrics but are most well known for their fabrics made from lyocell fibres. As a result, Tencel and lyocell are often used interchangeably.
Tencel fibres are often produced from sustainably grown eucalyptus trees, which are quick growing and need minimal pesticides. The fibres are extracted using a unique closed loop system which recovers and reuses more than 99% of the solvents used, minimising the environmental impact of production when compared to traditional viscose production methods. Less energy and water are also used in production.
Lyocell is technically a rayon fabric and as such behave in a similar wayiscose and rayon fabrics. They have a silky drape, are breathable, odor resistant, absorbant and feel comfortable to wear. Tencel fabrics are durable with good colour retention and tend to have a slight sheen or lustre to them. Tencel lyocell is also a very absorbent fabric, being 50% more absorbent than cotton.
Tencel tends to be a bit more expensive than equivalent fabrics and you might sometimes see it blended with other fibres - this can add to its characteristics, making it more hard-wearing for example, but can also make it more affordable.
I have Tencel Spandex solids available for my range of yoga and activewear basics. Lyocell linen is used for several of my casual pants and jumpsuit garments.
🌱 Eco-friendly Tip
Lyocell production may still source wood pulp from endangered and ancient forests. FSC / PEFC certified fabrics such as TENCEL™ Lyocell guarantee that clothing is made from sustainably managed forests and is what I look for when sourcing my fabrics.
Modal
Modal fabrics are also produced with the extraction of cellulose fibres from beech trees. These are then treated before they can be turned into a weaveable fibre. While less wasteful and chemically-intensive than traditional rayon/ viscose production, its chemicals are more caustic than those used for lyocell manufacturing. As with lyocell, it’s not always done in a closed-loop system either, meaning again you should seek out transparent users of lyocell or opt for carbon-neutral TENCEL™ modal.
Fabrics made from modal fibres have a good drape, are breathable and feel comfortable to wear. It is not as durable as tencel lyocell, but is softer and smoother to the touch. Modal is also a very absorbent fabric and it does not build up static. It is not as quick drying as tencel, though it tends to be more affordable.
When used in fabrics such as loop-back French Terrys they increase the drapiness of the fabric, meaning a French Terry with modal in it would have a greater drape to it than a cotton version.
You may also come across micro modal, which uses a very fine version of this fibre to make an even softer fabric and is often used in lingerie. I am currently searching for an environmentally certified micro modal for my lingerie range
Bamboo
Bamboo fabrics are produced from the fibres of the bamboo plant, which is the fastest growing grass species in the world. Bamboo grows easily without much need for pesticides and fertilisers. Because of this, bamboo has become a popular choice for fabric producers. It can be grown in difficult areas (such as hillsides) and uses much less land and water than cotton.
The production of bamboo fibres into fabric has varying environmental impacts and therefore it can be difficult to distinguish which fabrics are eco friendly and which use harmful processes similar to those used in viscose production. It can be processed using a closed loop method similar to Tencel lyocell fibres or it can be mechanically extracted, a method which can be used to produce organic bamboo fabrics. Processing techniques generally used in the production of traditional viscose are used most commonly, which unfortunately can be more harmful to the environment and causes the fabric to lose many of its beneficial properties.
Bamboo fabrics are a great choice for dressmaking as they’re so beautifully soft to wear. Like viscose, tencel and modal fabrics they also have a great drape and are breathable due to the fact they’re made from natural fibres. They have more crease resistance than these other fibres though.
I have begun to phase out bamboo spandex options in my range until I can source a certified organic option or bamboo lyocell produced using closed loop processes.
References:
Selfless Clothes: https://www.selflessclothes.com/blog/natural-vs-synthetic-fibers/#semi-synthetic-fibers
Sustainable Jungle: https://www.sustainablejungle.com/sustainable-fashion/sustainable-fabrics/
Guthrie & Ghani: https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/blog/the-essential-guide-to-new-semi-synthetic-fabrics
Next post: Fabric Certifications